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The S5 Tour : A life-time full of remembrances

An excursion just after an exam is what I hated the most – the simplest reason being inability to concentrate on exams. Moreover a dusky performance can cast its dirty shadow on the tour. This time anticipation of S4 result had its own role to play. I always tried my best to delineate strictly between the two. To add to the fidgetiness Ganesh and Prakash backed off the trip owing their own reasoning.

A 49 seater, air – suspension, luxury video coach from ‘ inturciti ‘ was chartered for the four day long ( officially ) Bekal Fort – Goa – Jog Falls journey. Later it so happened that 50 tourers including 3 staff members had to be accommodated in the bus. Contrary to my expectations, there was only a driver ( Venu chettan ) and a conductor ( Paili chettan ). The damping provided in the bus could have been more purposive providing a better composed ride and a healthier anti-pitching performance. I should admit that the anti-roll bar in the rear were up to their best. There is no second thought on the certitude that a power-steering augmentation  would reduce driver fatigue by three quarters.

As is customary, we prayed for a joyous and safe journey at the Pazhavangadi Ganapathi Temple and left for college at 6:55 p m. Later near PMG we noticed the absence of Sujith amongst us. It was real pleasure for all of us when we sighted Sujith ( in his Mundu ) chasing our coach on foot at Pattom junction. Around 8’O clock, after a couple of ‘ Jai Bolos ‘ we set out on our journey in full strength. The whole bus was singing and dancing  in tune with the music being played. I wondered how long will this spirit last – remarkably till midnight, except during a brief alight at Hotel Puttu Kada, Karunagapally for dinner. 156 liters of diesel went into the mammoth 265 liter reservoir at a gas station in Aroor at 12:30 p m . Vineeth, who was originally scheduled to retire at EKM, couldn’t resist from continuing the trip and called his parents from Karunagapally, who later in the witching hours handed over his baggage to us.

I had my first sleepless night and never felt as if night was always associated sleep. At 4’O clock we had to halt in Kottakal Holistic Hospital to show Shiva. We were greatly relieved when the Doctor okayed him for the trip and gestured on his mental infirmity. At 5:20 am Venu chettan, Paili chettan and myself had a transitory stopover in Ramanatukara for a cup of black tea. It was then that I realized, how strong a stimulant is a cup of hot tea. We arrived at Mary’s house in Kozhikode at 6:30 am and stopped for refreshing ourselves. Though hesitatingly, we had to accept the breakfast painstakingly prepared for us by Mary’s mother. From here our progress was too slow owing to the morning traffic, narrow and winding roads and unquestionably, the jumbo size of out tourer. Sharada wished fare-well to us when she discontinued at Payannor. At half past noon we checked into Hotel Fort Land, Uduma, five kms ahead of Bekal Fort. There was just enough time for a bath and lunch and then we sped to Bekal Fort by 2:45 p m. At the Fort we were greeted by Aravind and his father who were strenuously waiting for us since morning.

Towards the fag end of the fort facing the sea, is a naturally disturbed, beautiful beach, where I couldn’t stop thinking from a bath at sea. I persuaded and lured PC by offering him a towel. Here I should confess that I was bit too far sighted and was prepared for the occasion with my swimming shots and towel. It was a matter of seconds before Abru, Deepak, PC, Biren and Sujith undressed as far as we could and were at sea forming all sorts of formations, shouting the slogan “ all for one and one for all ”. An uninvited visitor and an untimely rain spoiled our wonderful bath. Deepak, here is a piece of advice – Learn to dive Properly. By 5:45  we were on our way back to hotel and after a change of clothes we spelt good-bye to Hotel Fortland. 

At 7’O clock we were at  Kasargode Nursing Home, for diagnosing Shiva. Fortunately here too, we got nod for Shiva accompanying us. Another 116 liters was dumped to placate the gigantic appetite of our stretch bus. When we reached Mangalore Shiva Pledges that he is not well and is discontinuing his journey. Ashok and Vinod  escort Shiva to a near by hospital, meanwhile the rest searched for a good restaurant and had dinner. Unable to find a consoling answer, Shiva returns from hospital and we pacified and persuaded him to continue with us.

Around 4’O clock, as usual Venu chettan, Paili chettan and myself got down for around of hot tea. This time many accompanied us. The tea served was tasting bad and was cut-throat priced at Rs. 4. By this time I knew that we were around Karwar and PC spotted a really calm, smooth and even ocean front, with almost no slope for at least for quarter of a km. This was by far the calmest seaside I have ever seen in my life – safest too. The waves were absent and at night any one could be made to believe that this was a salt water lake. Traveling further up, we chanced and aerial view of this beach and discovered the secret behind its serene face – this beach was enveloped by mountains from three sides and somehow they deflected the land ward wind reasoning the absence of waves. Another interesting fact noticed by me was a totally different coastal synopsis from that of Kerala. In Kerala coastal scenario is posted by coconut palm trees and fishing hamlets. Differing sharply from this coastal areas of Karnataka and later Goa is rarely inhabited, if not devoid of it and just meters from the beach one could spot lush green bushy vegetation. The soil and forests, a few hundred meters from the beach showed no signs of salty nature of Arabian Sea.. I deeply felt sorry for myself for this part of the journey should have happened in broad day light.

My watch ticked 6:30 am and we were in Karnataka border check-post beyond which lies a paradise called Goa. I , being a strong proponent for Goa during the inception stage of the tour, had collected some information about Goa . Firstly, liquor and alcohol of any make and brand is cheaper from Kerala by at least 50 percent , secondly it was off-season during this part of the year. Thirdly the beaches were not in their most glamorous outfits and finally that  People For Animals” has a strong foot hold. We checked in to DIYANA HOLIDAY RESORTS at 8:25 am. Even after fractionally adhering to the time-table we were late in Goa only by about 2 hours. My happiness knew no bounds when I heard that this hotel boasts of a swimming pool.

The pool was poorly maintained probably being off-season and initially I was reluctant in launching myself into the water. I made up my mind and slowly dipped in the shallow part of the pool and tasted the water. The water tasted fresh and sweety – later the hotel boy enlightened me that it was pure rain water harnessed in the pool over a period of 6 weeks. Except for the algae at the bottom the pool was really wonderful. Some time later many came to the pool and I feared a humanity flood in the pool. Once again I was recklessly happy to enumerate that only Viju and Neuro knew swimming and so would enter the deep zone.

To my bewilderment and dismay, Rahul jumped into the deep territory where water was in excess of six foot depth. I raced towards him occasionally watching him underneath water struggling to stay afloat. Even after exercising a lot I found myself moving very slowly in the water perhaps due to trepidation. By the time I reached Rahul, he had already drowned both Neuro and Viju. Frankly I didn’t do anything for Rahul clambered on to my shoulders very efficiently indeed and started wading his hands. I struggled to breath and felt Rahul was weighing over 200 kgs. Never dissenting the fact that this incident was equally terrifying and shocking for both Rahul and myself I felt proud that now I have graduated from an amateur swimmer to a rescue swimmer. Moreover it was a sort of anniversary reminder, for, it was during my last excursion in Black Thunder that I took swimming seriously.

After having a hefty break-fast at Plantain Leaf Restaurant we left on foot for the nearest beach – Calangute. Beach games like thottu-thottu, kabaddi and foot ball kept us enthralled for about 45 minutes and later we plunged into the waves. Coarse and rough sand strained many of our posteriors. Tall and powerful waves charged us with break-neck energy. Caught in a potent wave, I was lashed up to 20 foot into the beach.  On our way back I found time for shopping a couple of toys.

In the after noon I was busy glancing a Goa tours guide for probable sites of visit. It greatly amused me that Goa had three Bird Sanctuaries, but alas I could sojourn none, at least for the time being. Fort Agoda with its light house excited me a lot. Later in the day we hired two local boys, Rafeeq and Arun as our unofficial guides in Goa. I expressed my desire to visit Fort Agoda and our guides readily agreed to the suggestion.

A resemblance that impressed me was that stones, rather bricks used for the construction of Bekal and Agoda forts. They were cut-out from the heart of strong sedimentary mountains have showed very little signs of withering even after decades or perhaps centuries of existence. Enclosed within the walls of the fort was dense green bushy carpet – I wondered if the vegetation was tendered to grow in that guise.

From here we left for Fort Resort Beach where we chanced to see a grounded cargo liner – River Princess. Here I obtained a nature’s rare artifact – a deodorant bottle studded with live shells which I triumphantly transported back-home daring many apprehensions. From here we went to Beach Anjuna where for the first time in my life I handled a professional fishing line, thanks to a foreigner holidaying in Goa. On our way back, our motor coach’s front tyre got stuck in loose mud and a tipper in front, got one of her hind legs bogged down in loose sand. After an unsuccessful attempt to push the tipper back on road, our Venu chettan skillfully maneuvers our tourer from the situation. On reaching hotel every one had a bountiful dinner of their choice. Around 11’ O clock the entire group gathered at Calangute beach and spent 2 hours singing, playing and painfully hunting crabs. Miniature festivities and cards led us to a sound deep sleep.

Entire two days have elapsed since we set off and I compensated for the sleepless nights with a short 5 hour nap. It was 11’O clock when we bundled aboard the bus, unless we were a couple of hours earlier we would have had time for Baga Beach too. Our first location for the day was a 400 year old Saraswat Mangeshwarnath Shiva temple which was cosmetically guised to look much younger. Form here we went to new and old Basilica church and saw the sacred relics of St. Francis Xavier. Hotel Madhavashram was ‘privileged’ when I went to do lunch. I had my maiden drink of Vodka purely as an appetizer. After the lunch I got plenty of time to test my connoisseurship on a brand new Mahindra Classic. Next location for the day – Donapola Beach – all expected another round of bay watching and bathing, disapprovingly it turned out to be a pier constructed on a wide water channel. The lashing waters and swirl-pools kept my upper story engaged in excess of half an hour.

From here, next slop was beach Miramar – the last of beach visits in Goa. En route I spotted an amazing visual wherein a sturdy buffalo was being chased down the road by a bunch of street dogs. The chase was damn fast and long. Miramar was a low inclination, tough wave beach with a moderately hard under surface. Even the ever-cautious Sujith sounded the same, but for David Sir, we were forbidden from really exploring the waves. There was hell of an anger brewing in my mind for the ‘peaceful’ Sir. And I tried to cool myself by standing on my head and helping a single tier formation. Shopping and marketeering was for one thing that I loved, but Goa was purely unknown to me as market of something. The market that we were left to shop was a sheer disaster for it was a hopeless maze of shops displaying stuffs at astronomical prices. For now I realized why Chalai was the most sought after market in my hometown? I spent my time munching 100gms of mixture for Rs. 10 and reached our bus at razor sharp 6:30 p.m. 

We had a count of 46 by 6:40 p.m. and had signaled the bus to move on. A stern warning from PC did not deter Harish, Dipu, Bhatt and Manish from straying off and being late. When the missing were identified, we made a return trip to boarding point, Shiva spotted us and later they joined us.

The marvelous boat cruise

As of then none of us never even dreamt of the jubilation and joy in store for us in the cruise. We were briefed that it was a song and dance event where all could squeeze out to their extreme. A precursor was unveiled for us in the form of a glimpse of the previous ride. This particular vessel was a two tier, twin propeller, 2*40 bhp ( Kirloskar engine ), twin hulled, all equipped ferry which could ship 120+ souls on board. There were separate generator for meeting the power requirements of two stages, cabin and stalls. We were forced to occupy the bottom berth and I caught hold of the chef to escort me to the engine room beneath the deck. The installed was so huge and crude, perhaps due to the local construction and the all-welded frame work and reinforcements appeared to me as a cheap work of art. On tapping the keel a bit too hard, I could feel the fearful pressure of water on the other side.

The cruise started off very well and I went to the upper deck, through the bridge to the cabin where I spoke to Captain at length and touched the wheel. I even caught a spectacular lighted view of Goa, its bridges, roads and assembly hall from the cabin. Sitting in the cabin did I reckon the utility of three wire lines running all along the ceiling of lower deck. These were throttle controls of the engines and associated transfer cases. I wrote off this ferry as a primitive fashionable youth. Aboard the ferry, as promised it was an hour long gala and party with absolutely no bar on communion. Here one has to set his limits and dare, only his.

On my way back to bus, I purchased a crawling fighter from a road-side toy promoter showcasing a cute kneeling baby, and playful barking dogs. Fortunately I was short of money, else these would have added luster to my toy collection. Way back in hotel, I had a bath and then I left for Calangute beach all alone with a crab. After strain fully spotting another crab in the deserted beach, I left open the one I had and chased both of them into the waves. When they returned, I was extremely happy for I couldn’t recognize the one I had freed moments before.

Singularly for the next daybreak, we started our back home journey at 6:40 am and by 7:30 we were at Cuncolim depositing  161 liters of diesel into our carrier. At 9’O clock we were at Goa-Karnataka check post with myself helping the personal to search our bags. I fortunately reminded myself to look out for the peaceful beach near Karwar. A daylight view of this majestic bay was a real delight for eyes. We broke our night long fast at hotel Sea side view in Karwar. On confirming the road ahead to Jog falls, simultaneously convincing David Sir to let us run our normal course, we entered the final phase of our tour.

To reach the tallest water falls in India, 146 m high, we had to take a deviation from Kumta and travel 120 Km, out of which 60 Km is through evergreen forests. As it is always, I liked a drive through the forests – the twining, climbing roads always had an element of dubiety. Our ceaseless companions were deep valleys on one side. Occasional spotting of a common languor kept the bus cheering. In between, during a urinal pause, I wandered slightly into the forests and was startled to see a large tract of forest cleared and a 50 foot slanting granite wall suggested that it was some sort of check dam. Development and advancement have not left this forest untouched. Noon 2’O clock, all were grazing at the shear proportions and force of the falls and experiencing the blood sucking fear of a fall from the top of the fall. Some even joked that S4 results would drive many of us back to this place - for a committal death.

From here we sped to a township from where we intended to get down to the foot of the falls. The 146 m high falls was calling out at me and I under went some meditation to calm down myself and implored for all our safety – especially mine. It was usual for me to get thrilled and aflame on such instances during my previous trips forests and have committed many a unpardonable mistakes – flourishingly I escaped all unhurt.

Sujith  and myself led the way. While he was keeping count of the steps, I was looking for the shortest route with minimal complexity so that it would be easy for our followers, moreover I would lap as short a time as possible. In between it started to drizzle and slowly  I got drenched and completely. In all there were 1200 steps in advance of the foot hills and we took just less than 22 minutes for it. The rain had caught up and a strong current of water was flowing along the path. It made inching ahead dangerously possible. The rock cleavage was slippery  and in many a places we had to back off due to steep faces.

By now rain had strengthened and heavy winds lashed all the droplets produced by the falls on to us. A quarter of a second was more than enough to get the lens dampened. Even in this disorder Sujith and myself tried 2 snaps with help sought from a hapless umbrella. Each further pace I chose was chancy. Knowledge of swimming was of little use as the sand below was ready to engulf anything into itself. The water level was plummeting every now and then. This dynamism coupled with rain and wind terrified me for a while and I kept thinking of my way back.

But something within urged me to go as near as possible this giant. At least two-thirds the water from the top of the falls were droplets when they reached us, I found it to hard to keep my eye lids open and  ultimately I reached a point were I drew a big full-stop. All I can say about the proximity is that 50 foot would be high under estimation. Stepping a few steps backwards, I opened up and held my hand across an oncoming gush of wind and bloom……… I was felled down backward into a shallow pool and advantageously escaped ……………….

A total of 9 slips and trips were onto me – ironically 9 is my lucky number, perhaps due to that did I escape unhurt.

Sujith , Swadeep and myself got a few more minutes of extension to stay on in this place – thanks to the search of a bag which was not lost at all. On our way back , a shading rock prompted a snap beneath it. A total of 33 minutes was required for the uphill marathon. It was on my way back that I cared to notice the plastic and non-plastic litters along the trek path. It was disappointing and I sincerely hope to return to this place for cleaning up this mess. This is a place where I would definitely bring my family and children ( of course in future ) time and again to witness together the bountiful nature tirelessly sprinkling water.

Journey back home commenced a sharp 7:30 p.m. and we were to join NH 17 at Batkal, 80 Km from the falls. A fresh wave of fog and mist had swept the forests and the cool nights persuaded them to stay for long. Visibility was down to 10 foot or so with the head lights beaming. In earlier situations, I have been familiar to near 0 visibility but with the fog lamps, surging ahead was not impossible. This time the fog lamps on our tourer weren’t working and I sincerely wanted us to wait till it cleared. Venu chettan never thought alike and drove with  a definite sense of accuracy and knowledge of roads. It was 11’O clock  when we stopped in a way side hotel for our dinner. An invigorating cup of tea was as usual boozed by the crew and myself at 4’O clock in Payyanoor – this time Biren too joined us.

When the journey continued, I was badly in need of a sleep and searched the whole bus to and fro many a times for a seat. I couldn’t find one. At last a discontented and jealous myself had to harbor in the cabin. In Mahe we fed our tourer 186 liters of diesel- diesel being cheaper in this union territory. Hotel Elite, Quilandy happened to be our niche for our morning ablutions and breakfast. In the afternoon all except me had lunch in Hotel Najaf in Kaiparambu. Sleep was hypercritical to me at this specific juncture. Moreover I chanced to learn that in about two hours we would reach PC’s cousins house in Kalamassery. Here, 12 biscuits and 2 cups of tea quenched my hunger.

Before leaving EKM district we were happy enough not to see Kalpana;s grand parents in their ‘Kuzhy’. Only a few wholesome hours were left for the culmination of this tour and we boys spent time singing all the notorious parodies out on full throat. New words like stun stuna, stumbi and neo-usage like thuppi were the result of this conglomeration.  All the participants of the tour including the crew were given an opportunity to vent out their frank opinion to the  rest. In these Powder Biren and Air-India Lekha will remain the prominent ones.

We had our dinner at Hotel Residency and Arya  in Ochira, by 9:30 p.m. we embarked on the 2 hour journey to TVPM. We reached Men’s hostel, CET by around half past eleven and each one of us departed at respective stops when the bus ticked through K.D.Puram, Ambalamukku, Vellayambalam, East fort and Vanchiyoor. I was dropped at Statue around midnight, had I not bothered to ring my home.

- S. Gopanand